The journal

Four winters
in the van.

From the fall of 2016 to the spring of 2020, I spent the cold months on the road with a van full of birch panels and a black dog named Charlie. I painted outside, from life, in one sitting, nearly every day I could. This is what that was like.

By Mark James Lucas

325

paintings on the map

4

winters, 2016 to 2020

39,000km

between paintings, as the crow flies

1

dog, from Playa Hawaii

Most painters I admire work in a studio, with a photo clipped to the easel. I wanted the other thing: to stand in the place, in the wind, and get it down before the light moves on. So when the Okanagan went grey, I went south. Not for a holiday. For the work.

Not many painters do it this way, for this long. Every painting below is pinned where I painted it; drive the whole route on the map, or watch the episodes from the third winter.

What the four winters were for

The first years, I was learning to paint. It took me almost four years to be satisfied with mixing colour: to look at a patch of colour in nature and mix it pretty close on the first try. It’s surprising how hard that is to do quickly, before the sun sets or the scene changes.

The later years were about refining the process, and learning to paint not only what I saw, but what it made me feel. My feelings became my style.

01Winter 2016–17 · 92 paintings on the map

Down the coast, and a dog from Playa Hawaii

October 2016 to April 2017 · Washington, Oregon, California, Baja, Arizona

The first winter was an experiment. Down through Washington and Oregon in the rain, then the California coast: the Golden Gate from Sausalito, Morro Bay, Santa Barbara. By Christmas we were in Baja, and by New Year I was painting sunrise at Playa Costa Azul.

Loreto stopped me cold. Coming from Canada, you don’t see colour like that on a working boat. Somebody bought my painting of those boats right off the easel, the first time that had ever happened to me.

On the way back north we stopped at a beach called Playa Hawaii. That’s where we got Charlie. Then Sedona, the Grand Canyon in the snow, Joshua Tree, Ojai, and the long drive home in the spring.

“This is where we got our dog Charlie from.”

On camera at Playa Hawaii, Baja, 2019

Drive this winter on the map
Fishing Boats at Loreto
Fishing Boats at Loreto12 January 2017, Loreto, Baja California Sur
Bushes at Playa Hawaii
Bushes at Playa Hawaii15 January 2017
Golden Gate
Golden Gate25 February 2017
02Winter 2017–18 · 138 paintings on the map

Across Canada to Algonquin, then the long way to the Keys

September 2017 to April 2018 · Idaho to Ontario, the east coast, Florida, Texas, Arizona, Utah

The second winter started by going the wrong way. Charlie and I drove east, right across the country: Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, then Georgian Bay and Algonquin Park in the fall. Just the two of us and the van. The maples were turning, the lakes were grey, and I painted every day I could. Geoff Butler caught some of it on camera.

Jayna met us later, and we turned south, all the way down to the Florida Keys, where the clouds stack up over Boca Chica and Geiger Key like nothing I’d seen. Then west through Texas and Arizona, into the red rock of Utah: Lake Powell, Zion, and the Natural Bridge at Bryce with snow still in the shadows.

I had never been to most of those states. Standing in them is different: the desert heat, the wind in your face, a painting that has to be finished before the light goes.

“Ending these last few weeks with the Chars, just as we started. She’s a good girl.”

Algonquin Park, fall 2017

Drive this winter on the map
Mark sitting against a rock, holding Charlie, a black dog
Me and Charlie in Algonquin. Photo: Geoff Butler
Birch Island Pines
Birch Island Pines26 November 2017
Dusk at Boca Chica Key
Dusk at Boca Chica Key8 January 2018

Photos by Jayna

Parkhill, Ontario, 3 December 2017. Photo by Jayna
Parkhill, Ontario · 3 December 2017
Lake Huron, Ontario, 6 December 2017. Photo by Jayna
Lake Huron, Ontario · 6 December 2017
Painting from the van, Big Coppitt Key, 5 January 2018. Photo by Jayna
Painting from the van, Big Coppitt Key · 5 January 2018
The van, Big Coppitt Key, Florida, 8 January 2018. Photo by Jayna
The van, Big Coppitt Key, Florida · 8 January 2018

Manitoulin Island, November 2017

Wolf tracks, and the easel I left behind

I found a way into a closed-off stretch of shore on Manitoulin and stayed three days. One morning there were wolf tracks all around the van, right next to Charlie’s.

When we finally drove out, I forgot my easel was still set up. I had to go back after dusk and walk a couple of kilometres in with Charlie, and there it was, still standing, a wet painting on it. I hiked out with it.

North Channel Frost, the painting
A wolf’s paw print in the snow beside Charlie’s smaller one
Wolf, and Charlie
Snow and ice along the stony shore of the North Channel, Manitoulin Island
The North Channel shore

Grand Bend, Lake Huron, December 2017

Painting from someone else’s photo

We stayed with friends in their house on Lake Huron and I got to paint a lot: the beach, the pier, the light going down over the lake.

I also did a commission there, Dunes at Sunset, from her photo. I didn’t like it. That’s when I learned I can’t paint from other people’s photos. Then it got very cold, and we headed south.

Huron Sunset, the painting
Mark in a red plaid jacket painting at his easel on the dunes above Lake Huron
On the dunes, Grand Bend
The day’s panel on the easel in front of the Grand Bend pier and lighthouse
The pier, in the panel

March 2018

A winter’s month on the table

Near the end of the winter I laid out a month of studies on a table: New Mexico to Utah, red rock, snow and big skies.

About twenty small oil studies laid out on a glass table, desert reds, snow and sky
A month of studies, New Mexico to Utah

Verde Hot Springs, Arizona, March 2018

A hot spring on the Verde River

South of Utah we drove out to a natural hot spring on the Verde River: old concrete pools full of warm green water, painted rock walls, and the river running past.

We met a guy there who had been on the TV show Alone, twice. He didn’t win either time, but he had stories.

Mark and Jayna in a warm green pool at Verde Hot Springs, painted rocks behind
Jayna and me in the pool
Mark in a camp chair by the Verde River with Charlie on his lap
Charlie by the river
03Winter 2018–19 · 61 paintings on the map

Kauai, the coast road, and the episodes

September 2018 to April 2019 · Kauai, the Gulf coast, California, Baja

That November we flew to Kauai for five weeks: Hanalei in the rain, Poipu, the bluffs at Makawehi. Sixteen paintings, green on green. Christmas was on the Gulf coast at Pensacola.

Back on the Pacific side I bought a drone and started filming the sessions properly. That winter became the episodes: Devil’s Slide, Point Lobos, Big Sur, Ojai, then down the Baja peninsula again to Loreto, Cerritos and Cabo. Two years after that first sale, I painted the same fishing boats in Loreto.

On 22 February I painted twice: the arch in the morning, the waves off Camino Cabo Este until the sun went down. Both are films now.

“I’m pretty stoked on having this bit of technology to show you the spaces where I get to hang out and paint.”

On camera near Point Lobos, January 2019

Drive this winter on the map
Arch at Cabo
Arch at Cabo22 February 2019 · the film
Hanalei Bay
Hanalei Bay8 November 2018
Cliffs at Point Lobos
Cliffs at Point Lobos26 January 2019

Photos by Jayna

Big Sur, California, 28 January 2019. Photo by Jayna
Big Sur, California · 28 January 2019
El Pescadero, Baja, 16 February 2019. Photo by Jayna
El Pescadero, Baja · 16 February 2019
La Playa, Baja, 23 February 2019. Photo by Jayna
La Playa, Baja · 23 February 2019
Charlie and the van, La Paz, 3 March 2019. Photo by Jayna
Charlie and the van, La Paz · 3 March 2019

Kauai, November to December 2018

Five weeks on Kauai

That November we flew to Kauai: Hanalei in the rain, Poipu, the bluffs at Makawehi, Wailua. Green on green, red earth, and clouds that never stay still. These are the island paintings, on their own.

14 paintings · scroll sideways →

04Winter 2019–20 · 34 paintings on the map

One more lap, and the long way home

January to March 2020 · California, Baja, Mazatlán

The last winter started late, in January: Mount Baldy, Petaluma, Pescadero, Point Lobos in the mist, Laguna Beach. Then Cerritos again, where I painted the tidal rocks and went back a week later to paint them twice the size.

By March we were across the water in Mazatlán. Then the world shut down, and we drove home.

“It’s all about having fun and getting out here and learning.”

On camera in Cabo San Lucas, February 2019

Drive this winter on the map
Tidal Rocks at Cerritos, bigger
Tidal Rocks at Cerritos, bigger24 × 18 in., one week after the sketch
Misty Point Lobos
Misty Point Lobos7 February 2020
Tidal Waters at Cerritos
Tidal Waters at Cerritos25 February 2020

Photos by Jayna

Pescadero, California, 25 January 2020. Photo by Jayna
Pescadero, California · 25 January 2020
Pacific Grove, California, 27 January 2020. Photo by Jayna
Pacific Grove, California · 27 January 2020
Laguna Beach, California, 3 February 2020. Photo by Jayna
Laguna Beach, California · 3 February 2020
El Habal, Sinaloa, 15 February 2020. Photo by Jayna
El Habal, Sinaloa · 15 February 2020

Mexico, 2020

The dog bite

Jayna was taking a pregnant street dog to a shelter to be fixed, and I was helping. The dog didn’t see it that way. Tetanus shots followed.

Mark’s tattooed forearm with a small dog bite, an Instagram story caption above it
Step 2: get chewed on

Between the winters

On the walls,
at home.

Back in the Okanagan the paintings went up on walls: a winery, two galleries in Penticton.

Covert Farms, Oliver

Early shows on the winery’s wood walls. I sold a few paintings from the first one.

Framed Okanagan landscapes hung on a rough cedar wall at Covert Farms
Covert Farms, July 2018
A wall of framed paintings, large and small, on cedar boards
Covert Farms, April 2016
Framed paintings wrapped in plastic, laid out on a sofa before a show
Wrapped and ready

Penticton

Early paintings at the Penticton Art Gallery, and a wall at the Martin Gallery. Lloyd’s Gallery had them up for about six months. Nothing sold there; that’s part of it too.

Eight framed paintings lit on a grey gallery wall
Martin Gallery, Penticton, June 2017
Framed early paintings on green and red gallery walls with labels
Penticton Art Gallery, September 2015

What the road teaches

Paint fast.
Talk to strangers.

You learn to paint fast, because the light won’t wait and neither will the tide. You learn that the wind is part of the painting. You learn to set up where people walk by, because they will stop and talk, and some of the best conversations I’ve had started with a stranger asking what I was painting.

I put out postcards. At a waterfall in Big Sur I think I went through about thirty. And you learn how much a van can hold, and where not to put the wet panels.

“When people see me, it gets a little weird, but I’m getting used to it.”

On camera in Loreto, Baja

Once a month

Letters from
the road.

New paintings, where I’m painting next, and the first look at new prints. One email a month, nothing else.